Whether it is because of the gorgeous Palladian porch propped up by ancient Doric pillars that reach to the sky, or the intricate Greek-Gothic inlays, this quay overlooking the Ganga invariably provokes a gasp of awe at first sight. This construction doggedly refuses to appear arty and yet one cannot help but marvel at it. This magical monument set against a dramatic backdrop, was a major attraction for the erstwhile British diplomats then, and continues to cast its spell on any passersby, even today. At Prinsep Ghat you can see the regality of human craftsmanship blend seamlessly with the simplicity of nature.
Route
Moving north-bound by the Strand Road from Hastings, Prinsep Ghat is the first ghat on your left after the Vidyasagar Setu passing across overhead, located opposite the entrance of Fort Williams.
The Ghat
Designed by W. Fitzgerald and constructed in 1843 in memory of the eminent Anglo-Indian scholar and antiquary James Prinsep, the stark-white ghat exudes a sense of quiet power.
The Prinsep Ghat boasts 4 rows of Ionic columns arranged north-south (6 on the outer sides and 2 rows each of 10 in the inner side) with paired spiral scrolls in white and beige on the capital, large arched windows on either side. The attractively carved ceiling painted in chocolate looks splendid. The sparkling white monument in its all new avatar sitting on a lush green manicured lawn looks spectacular. A large ornate cauldron with flowering plants on one side of the lawn is a statement piece.
By far, Prinsep Ghat is Kolkata’s most attractive ghat – thanks to a series of restorations done by the Kolkata Port Trust. The entire pavilion today is guarded by a low iron railing from all sides to protect it from infiltrators. The Prinsep Ghat set against the impressive Vidyasagar Setu makes for a unique landmark of the city.
The pavilion of Prinsep Ghat is now about a 100 metres away from the river. This singular anomaly if one may call it that owes its aberrant wilfulness to the change of the course with time of the river. Keeping the pavilion on your left one would need to cross the Prinsep Ghat Circular Railway Station to reach the banks of the Ganges. The beauty of the riverside garden flanked on either side by series of casuarina trees is mesmerising. Bathing and immersion, thankfully, is prohibited at this ghat.
History
The versatile Indologist James Prinsep was born on August 20, 1799 and came to India in 1819. He joined as the Assay Master in the Calcutta Mint in 1829 and simultaneously took charge of the Asiatic Society of Bengal as Secretary. During his tenure, he did much important work such as deciphering the scripts of Brahmi and Kharosti, introducing of uniform coinage of Company’s rupees, reformation of weights and measures and the construction of the circular canal connecting the river Hooghly and the Sunderbans.
James Prinsep died a premature death on 22 April 1840. As a befitting tribute to the departed scholar, the people of Kolkata decided to build the Prinsep Ghat on the eastern bank of the river Hooghly. The ghat was opened to the public in the year 1843 to greet its important visitors in neo-classic stateliness. It was also meant to replace the Chandpal Ghat as the official marine landing site for VIPs arriving in town.
According to Radharaman Mitra, when the then Governor General of India, Lord Ellenborough, left India in July 1844, he boarded his ship from Prinsep Ghat. Thereafter, all the royals and dignitaries used this ghat for landing and boarding ships. However, in 1905, Lord Curzon was the first dignitary to avail a train from Howrah Station to visit Bombay. This was partly owing to the excitement of the newly constructed Howrah Station but mostly since the ghat had moved away from the river. The Strand Bank Road was constructed, leaving the Strand Road to be relegated to comparative ignominy.
Prinsep Ghat has always enjoyed significant status and importance, especially conspicuous in the royal visits of 1875, 1905 and 1911. It is said that an amphitheatre, with about 3000 seats, was constructed between the pavilion and the river, for receiving the royals. Roofing was supposed to have been done on either side while the heavy cornice of the archway continued all around. The intervening spaces were carpeted in blue and a small dais, with two golden thrones, was set beneath a canopy to host the royals.
Life at the Ghat
Prinsep Ghat has always invoked a deep sense of romance among city dwellers as well as tourists. You may enjoy the mesmerising view of the beautiful Hooghly River from a vantage position or spend hours together sitting on its benches, watching the city life pass by – or even tread on the soft grass and establish your moment of tranquil communion with nature.
Tushar Kanti Laha chants the Ganga Sahasra Pranam every morning, sitting at the ghat. You may find passionate photographers capturing precious moments, converting them into timeless memories. Kanai Baul finds it immensely gratifying to sit on the parapet of the broad flight of stairs of the ghat under the huge banyan tree and gather inspiration from the activities of the boatmen plying on this route, as he croons his favourite folk number to anyone who cares to listen.
If you want to go the whole hog, you could avail a boat-ride from the ghat, look up at the endless sky and quietly surrender yourself to eternity. Or you could marvel at the successful toil of human endeavour as evidenced in the magnificent Howrah Bridge and the almost equally impressive flowing lines of the Vidyasagar Setu seamlessly bearing aloft vehicles and the footfalls of the madding Kolkata crowd.
Great rivers have spawned great civilizations. As the gentle Hooghly changes its course and makes its stately way, nudging through various levees of Kolkata, it casts a magic spell and seduces many a traveler to visit its shores. It will continue to encourage creative geniuses to build such stoic monuments and inspire local majhis to warble in Bhatiyali tune, “age zanle tor bhanga noukai sortam na….”